by Benita Lee | Jun 22, 2021 on thehoneycombers.com
Enter the underground world of secret societies on this intriguing heritage tour led by former gang members
The streets of Chinatown have captivating stories to tell. Photography: Benita LeeFrom historical tales to personal stories from ex-offenders, I experienced it all on this heritage tour. Psst: you can use your SingapoRediscovers vouchers!
Ever wondered about the dark side of Singapore? We often rave about our Garden City’s lush green parks and stunning architectural marvels, overlooking things that don’t fit our rep as a squeaky clean and sterile country. But there’s so much more to us. That’s why Triad Trails is here to unearth fascinating facets of the city’s seedy underworld. Giving new meaning to familiar sights in Chinatown, the walking heritage tour – guided by former gang members – uncovers the enclave’s secret society past.
This collab between tour operator Actxplorer and social enterprise Architects of Life combines elements of history with personal stories from ex-offenders. The result? A riveting experience that’ll give you a fresh perspective on the neighbourhood and its people. Oh, and thanks to my SingapoRediscovers vouchers, I didn’t have to pay a cent for the 2.5-hour tour (it’s $70, including lunch).
Opium dens and secret society headquarters
Our guide, Bruce Mathieu. Photography: Benita Lee
It’s a rainy and slightly gloomy Saturday when our small group meets Bruce Mathieu, our guide. Instantly, he brightens up our day with his honest humour and I realise this isn’t going to be like any other tour. The 52-year-old French-Chinese is fluent in multiple languages – and he’s as colourful and candid as they come.
Photography: Benita Lee
Our trail starts off at UOB Plaza 1, along the Singapore River, as Bruce points out landmarks and reveals no-holds-barred nuggets of history interwoven with amusing jokes. He tells us how his gang used to run security services for popular nightclubs in Singapore. And how the yellow shophouses nearby – now occupied by eateries – formerly housed the third largest secret society in Singapore.
The tour’s meeting point comes with a view. Photography: Benita Lee
Before we round the corner towards Yueh Hai Ching Temple, one of the oldest in Singapore, Bruce points out he attended kindergarten at Telok Ayer. And he reveals the shops outside OCBC Centre were previously brothels and opium dens. Betcha didn’t know that – I definitely didn’t, even though I’ve worked in the nearby areas for years.
Admire the intricate architecture of Yueh Hai Ching Temple. Photography: Benita Lee
When we reach China Street, he shows us the headquarters of the city’s largest secret society in the 1800s. From gambling to drugs, the area was bustling with activity. His grandfather used to own a noodle and popiah stall here, Bruce says, so he learned the trade too. The shophouses of China Street have an interesting past.
People joined gangs back then for survival, to avoid being beaten up or cheated when they were Chinese immigrants fresh off the boat, he explains. What about now? He throws the question to the group and someone pipes up, “For fun?” He nods, adding that motives have changed over the years.
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